Choikhona Rohat, Varzob Valley, and Settling

This past weekend was great: Friday night a few friends and I watched the USA/Slovenia World Cup game at the local Hyatt. The Western (mostly American)crowd made it feel like we were back in the States. It is a very, very fancy hotel--easily the best facilities in Dushanbe. After the game and a few over-priced beers we made our way over to Choikhona Rohat, Tajiki for "Relaxed Teahouse." Settling at this gorgeous indoor-outdoor local gem in the 80º starred Dushanbe night --made better by fresh shashliks (kibabs) and warm local bread--perfected the night. We chased our food with some more chilled beers and a stroll by the Haji Yakoub Mosque.

From DW in Dushanbe

8:30 Saturday morning we left Dushanbe, driving along the Varzob River north into the mountains. Dushanbe is besieged by mountains--some still capped in slowly melting/year-round snow; others full of once-green brush, crisped by the Tajiki summer. The river lead us in to the Varzob region of Tajikistan, where the mountains have dried, barring a few towering peaks. There, myself and a few others made our way up a dry and steep summit. Only a few brave souls made it up the peak, from the original twenty or so hikers (the main obstacle being bad footwear and sharp slant). By the time we finished we were about 2200 meters (~7200 feet) up, looking down at the Varzob and the similarly snaking road. If you'd like to see some more pictures from the tip (and other parts of my travels here) they can be found here.

From DW in Dushanbe

From DW in Dushanbe

From DW in Dushanbe

After descending from the mountain the rest of the day was spent in bungalow-like huts that dangled over the roaring river, eating and relaxing. After a filling lunch of cucumber-tomato salad, fresh bread, watermelon, and osh--the Tajiki national dish, composed of oil, rice, carrots, mulberry, and mutton-- I took it easy for a bit while others swam in the pool filled by icy river water. Soft pillows, drawn shades, and the storming white river served as prime environs for reading and nap time. It was a serene Saturday that I will not soon forget.

In Dushanbe again and done fighting stomach aches round two, I am back in the swing of things. Classes are going, and I can feel my Persian slowly strengthening. And the same goes my Tajiki. I finally finished The Accidental Empire and have moved on to Saul Bellow's The Adventures of Augie March. It's fantastic.

Take care for now.

-DW in Dushanbe