The Jews of Tajikistan

The Jews of Tajikistan once numbered over 15,000. Today there remain no more than a few hundred; 400, I am told, mostly old and immobile citizens in Dushanbe. In my third week I went to Saturday services at the local synagogue, a building opened in March of 2009 after the bulldozing of the main synagogue, named the Bukharian Synagogue, that had served the local Jewish community for over 100 years.

From DW in Dushanbe

Once, most of Tajikistan’s Jews were from Bukhara. Historically, the city has always been a part of Tajikistan, but after the Soviet takeover in early 20th century the maps were redrawn and Bukhara was moved to neighboring Uzbekistan. Jews lived in Tajikistan before the 1920's but a Soviet resettlement immigration policy brought, what became the majority of Dushanbe's (and Tajikistan’s) Jews from Bukhara.

The brimming new synagogue, like many other houses in Dushanbe and throughout the Middle East and Central Asia, is walled-in and contains a lush courtyard. It was in my second week here that I first went to the synagogue and spoke with the gentleman who lives there. The kind man, who sported a gray mustache and modest kippah, spoke in a soft voice of the life of Jews in Dushanbe in the last few years. After Tajikistan's declaration of independence, following the fall of the Soviet Union, thousands of Jews left the country for the United States or Israel. As is the case for most Tajiks life is not easy, but the Jews here get by, frequently with help from international organizations or families abroad, he said.

When I went to services a few weeks ago I had the privilege of leading part of the services in the small yet stunning shul. The congregants, all of whom were men and numbering no more than ten, were wrapped in a new talitot and read siddurim written in Hebrew and transliterated into Cyrillic. The chairs are new and leather-upholstered; the windows adorned by new white curtains; the walls were covered by fine wall paper, and in some rooms paintings of Jerusalem hang. The aron, or holy ark where the Torah is housed, is a large lock box wrapped in pomegranate-colored felt. While we did not read that day, I was fortunate to see Torah, clothed in blue velvet, the week before. Those present for Shabbat services were mostly Ashkenazi (namely, Russian), not Bukharan, which was an obstacle as I did not speak Russian nor they Tajik/Persian or English.

Strangely, I currently live in a Jewish home. Technically. The home in which I am staying was purchased from a shokhet, or Jewish butcher, just before the break out of the civil war in 1993. In fact, my neighborhood was once a full of Jewish families; most left for Israel and the US in the early 1990's.

The Jews of Dushanbe still meet each Saturday for services and for some holidays (Friday services are not held). It is no secret where the synagogue is located; I first found it by asking a taxi driver to take me there (people don't know streets here, only landmarks). There, I was kindly directed to the exact building by some locals. As everywhere, there are people who hate for no reason; while I haven't yet experienced it here, I trust it exists. My family here knows I am Jewish and as do all my teachers (many of whom once had Jewish friends, neighbors, and teachers) Fortunately, for the most part the Jews of Dushanbe live peacefully and without interruption.

One of the Most Beautiful Places

Iskandar Kul is one of the most beautiful places in all of Central Asia. The cool, turquoise water, sitting in the middle of towers of rock and mountain, gathers from melted glacier water that descend from up high; the lake, which at the right hour, is a mirror reflecting the besieging mountains, bleeds into a river that cuts into a valley, only to spill down a mighty waterfall.

From DW in Dushanbe

Last weekend, after four hours of mountain roads from Dushanbe, a drive no further than the distance from Baltimore to Washington DC, the Persian Undergraduate Flagship Program arrived at the Iskandar Kul national park, named after Alexander the Great (who, according to legend dropped lots of treasure into the cold waters). At our campsite, near a presidential compound, which itself was opposite a small icy spring, we ate lunch in the overwhelming presence of mosquitoes. After some rest by our riverside campsite we circled the blue pool to hike a few kilometers to the waterfall.

From DW in Dushanbe

From DW in Dushanbe

Back towards camp, after backtracking to the lake, some friends and I opted to walk the four kilometers (instead of riding the jeeps) to our site. Under the descending sun and mountain shadows we made way--very leisurely at that--back. Trying to describe not just the beauty, but the feeling and recognition of the natural splendor would be trying to grasp the entirety ofFor Whom the Bell Tolls from one paragraph; While I can give you a glimpse, a hint of what it was like to be there, it is an incommunicable sight and sensation.

From DW in Dushanbe

Over the next twenty four hours our guides took us to fields, springs, streams--sites innocent contrasted by the sharp and cold gazes of the mountains above. Pleasantly, our treks were primarily guided by where we wanted to go--caves, flower patches, mountains--not paths. Very refreshing and forgiving were the frigid springs spotted throughout the area. Out of water? Go to the spring for water at the source--so cool and so great.

Arriving on Saturday and leaving on Sunday did not permit a lot of extensive exploration; nor would a lifetime there. If you ever make it out here, go to Iskandar Kul.

In addition here are some of my favorite pictures from the trip:

From DW in Dushanbe

From DW in Dushanbe

From DW in Dushanbe

Women in Tajikistan

This post is dedicated (but not necessarily related) to two birthday boys: Elan Cohen and Bryan Katz. Elan celebrated his last week; Bryan's just the other day. Happy birthday to both of you guys.

It's a little more than two weeks until I leave Dushanbe for the heavier heat of the New York/Maryland. These eye-opening and dusty five-ish weeks have led to more than just an improvement in my Persian language skills: at the same time that I find myself challenged by my classroom education, the great majority of my learning has occurred outside of it. Be it learning the Tajik language, figuring out what foods to not eat, finding quiet reading spots, etc. One of the most interesting cultural observations I've witnessed is the role of women in Tajik society.

Let me start with this: these are observations, not professional sociological studies substantiated by data or interviews. I am calling it as I see it, but please do not take this post as the end-all-and-be-all of women's status in Tajikistan. Moreover I am not passing judgement; all cultures are unique and to claim one's supremacy over another is at the heart of prejudice, cultural conflict, and the root of many of today's international problems.

Before I arrived in Tajikistan, of the few people who knew what and where it was, and those who didn't, would comment how I was heading to a backwards land where, among other prejudices, women are objectified and vieled. Such assumption usually trigger images of the Taliban or Hamas, closing girls schools and exacting harsh fines--not always financial--for immodesty. This is not the case in Tajikistan.

In this small country many women do where veils and scarves, for both religious and fashion-related reasons. Many wear the kurta, a snuggie like dress (pictured below) while many dress in jeans and t-shirts; a trend, I've noticed, that is occurring all over--Morocco, India, Israel, Russia, Tajikistan, and other countries have had much of their traditional dress replaced by Gucci or other Western fashions.

Women in Tajik society also have options. In this, the poorest of the former Soviet satellites, all who are able to, usually work. It is out of necessity that women work; in the bazaars or shops, government offices or cell phone stores.
On the otherhand a great many women also beg, sometimes with crying children or sleeping infants held close. Of most of the beggars and homeless I've seen, most have been women.

In the Tajik home it is thru the labors of the women--in my homestay, namely my mother, sister, sister-in-law, etc.--that a home functions. In my neighborhood this is the norm; in other areas it may be different. My neighborhood is fairly conservative and usually, when I'm leaving for or returning from class, women are sweeping floors, cooking food, chasing children--frequently with the help of their daughters. In my family, my father and five brothers work incredibly long hours and usually return home late at night, if at all. There to feed them and help them are the women. I feel strongly asserting the following: the family unit in Tajikistan is cohesive, supportive, and strong (of course, not all families are such but in my experience and that of my classmates it is so).

What makes Tajikistan like the US is that opportunity exists, and women are seizing the opportunity (perhaps a little slowly). A few women--traditional, women--have expressed to me that women belong at home, that a good wife is silent and cooks well. My young homestay niece (pictured previously with a kitten in hand) is given dolls and at her young age--she's about one year old--rocks and lulls them.

But if you go out into the streets of Dushanbe at night you will see young men and women together, holding hands, drinkind, going to the bars or clubs. In the cool nights I think people come out dressed a little lighter and more Western.

As Persian studies major my experience and studies of Persian culture go beyond Iran, as the Persian world includes Afghanistan, Tajikistan, and other countries. In my Journalism class last semester I posted about Iranian Women, I discussed, briefly, the lives and challenges of Iranian women. In Tajikistan many of the same challenges exist but the societal standards are different. More importantly the way Tajik women respond to those standards differs to the way Iranian or American or Japanese or Italian women would react. At the same time Tajiki culture is bombarded with Russian music videos and Armani pants, the people retain a unique and exclusive approach to living. Like all cultures there exist special and excusive circumstances--influences and expectations--for women; in Tajikistan their is opportunity but also tradition.

Mine and America's birthdays

Hi all, sorry for taking so long to post again--a lot has happened since my last update when I had come back from northern Tajikistan. I've since turned 22--a day marked by nice 80 degree weather and an incredible schmorgasborg of a birthday party--and the USA 234.

My host-family welcomed a great majority of my classmates into their home for a dinner of fresh salads (tomato-cucumber, mushroom, eggplant, and countless others), warm bread, osh, cookies, and the largest and best birthday cake I've ever had (made by hand by my home-stay sister). They were so kind as to welcome us into their home and deal with the mayhem that comes with 25 students. Somehow they still managed to cook too much food, a living testament of Tajiki hospitality and sincerity. They also gave a very nice shirt as an additional present. I also received a traditional Tajik hat, a kif holder, and a stone tree from my teachers. Afterward we headed out to the cool and humid outdoor lounges of downtown Dushanbe where we watched some World Cup soccer and had some drinks.


The following day started with a trip to TALCO (Tajik Aluminum Comapny). TALCO is responsible for up to 60% of Tajikistan's foreign income, according to some. Checking out its wikipedia page it apparently eats up 40% of the countries electricity, and is responsible for a great number of blackouts. Nonetheless it is a crucial part of the country's economy and is housed at an enormous facility. After a few hours of touring--seeing smoldering aluminum reaching temperatures of 6000 degrees and the structure's museum--we checked out some rice farms and flax seed oil factories, soon followed by a lazy ride back into Dushanbe.

For the 4th of July we went to the US Embassy for BBQ and "fireworks." It was nice to be surrounded by English again, toss around the football, and have some decent hamburgers. The fireworks were a nice try but were a far cry from those off of the Statue of Liberty or National Mall. Monday was a day off from class so my classmates and I went our awesome Persian teacher's house to cook a lot of Iranian food. It was the right cap to an extended weekend.

Take care.

Busy

Hey I'm sorry its been a while since my last post. This past week has been quite busy--there is much to report; from a week of classes and fun to my birthday to the Tajik Aluminum Company to the 4th of July celebration at the US Embassy. I'll post tomorrow/soon. With pictures, too.

Take care